Why do Drones Fly Away? How to Avoid This Disaster.

Any novice and even expert drone pilot will tell you that one of their biggest fears when operating their model, besides crashing, is the dreaded “fly away”.

It is a situation which happens more and more rarely due to an evolution in drone technology, but is still a very likely possibility if you’re not careful.

What exactly is a drone fly away?

Imagine for a second you’re out, operating your model, when suddenly, the controls don’t work at all, and you see in horror as your bird just flies away from you, without any reasoning, and you never see it again.

In my most cases, if such a thing happens, it usually leads to one of two scenarios:

1) The bird just goes as far as it can, then just lands when the battery runs out. And that could be on uneven surfaces or even water if you’re not careful.

2) As the bird is moving away from you, it hits an obstacle and crashes. In fact, I experienced something like this recently, even though everything appeared to be fine with my drone. It wasn’t that far from me, I had a clear connection to it, and yet the fly away did occur, but I was able to fix it while it was going on. Here’s what happened.

But it doesn’t really matter which of these 2 scenarios occurs, it absolutely sucks and there’s a good chance you will have to search for the drone and/or possibly never be able to find it, and that’s considering it didn’t crash into something.

Why do these things happen?

In the past and presently, these issues occur/ed for one of two reasons:

1) Software issues, glitch and basically bugs in the drone system.

This is an issue that has actually become less and less frequent due to an improvement in drone technology but it can still happen from time to time and it usually will happen to cheaper models. 

If you own a pretty low quality model or something like the Phantom 2 and below (DJI), you may still find that such a situation MAY occur.

More newer models, such as the Phantom 3 and 4, the Mavic series and basically higher end models like the Yuneec have much better software in place to prevent this issue from happening, so basically, as technology in this field grew, the likelihood of your bird going missing has decreased substantially (but it’s still possible). 

However, even with there being less issues from the technological end, there is still one remaining factor that no amount of technology will possibly ever correct:

2) Piloting error. 

This is especially prevalent with newer pilots who do not know about obvious safety steps they need to take before operating their bird. 

Here’s the most common piloting error that leads to fly aways:

Many drone models today come with an option to come back to you if a signal is lost or there’s an issue where the battery runs low and the bird decides to come back to avoid a possible landing elsewhere. 

However, the models which do come with this feature are often misused by pilots in that they don’t turn it on OR let the bird use it. They will turn it on and just have it take off. 

This is a mistake since when it starts, there is an option to MARK the starting location of the bird so it knows where to go if you want it to return “home”. This is actually set automatically within a minute or two of you starting the bird, but it is also something that you can manually set.

In short, this feature is one of the MAJOR safety features every pilot needs to use. Otherwise, this is what MAY happen:

If you start your bird and do NOT mark down it’s starting location and a fly away happens, the bird will actually attempt to go back to it’s last known starting location. 

Imagine for a second you’re in a field (Location A), the starting location gets marked there. You finish using your bird, then take it to another, distant location (B), which is several miles away and DON’T set the new starting location to B. What will happen is, if the bird starts to lose connection and/or you tell it to come home, it’ll go home to location A! 

Don’t let this happen, be patient and set a starting location each time you take off.

Other piloting issues involve them starting up the bird and just making it take off right away. This is a mistake because the GPS needs a little bit of time to load and this will help the bird identify it’s location better as well as mark it’s starting point to come back to should the signal be lost. 

Connection issues with your bird may happen frequently depending on what type of drone you use and WHERE you use it. Certainly there are ways to maintain a strong connection, but signal errors can happen anywhere and anytime, so if you set that starting point from where you took it off from, you will be able to have assurance that it will come back there.

Another feature you can use (it’s available on good models) is you can have the drone use YOUR controller as it’s home point. I usually do not do this because if I move around while my model is in the air, and I am underneath things like trees and such and an issue occurs, it will try to land over my while potentially hitting those trees, so if you set the home point to be an open area, it’ll come back to the open area.

And here’s an example of this disaster happening:

I’m fairly certain the guy in that video made one of the 5 mistakes I’ll be talking about in a moment that basically didn’t “insure” his flight, but it was avoidable and here’s…

5 tips to avoid fly aways:

1. Ensure you’re in an area with strong connection (here’s tips for this). Stronger connections reduce the risk of losing a connection and having the model have to come back on autopilot.

2. Make sure to have your bird (or you) mark it’s starting location before taking off. And make sure to remark a new location with each new flight in each new area! Here are other safety recommendations.

3. Ensure you have a high level model as the likelihood of this accident happening deceases. If you don’t have an expensive model, a better option is to keep the drone close to you (in sight). And always keep your firmware, software updated. 

4. Let the bird load before taking flight, so it marks the GPS and location. 

5. It is better to have the bird set a starting location in an open field vs having it come back to where the remote controller is (aka with you), as you may be in a different, more obstacle ridden location.

Flying Drones at Night. Is it Safe or Dangerous?

Spoiler: Flying drones at night is dangerous, very dangerous, but a drone can be flown at then, given the right circumstances.

Now depending on the type of model you have and it’s quality as well as how far you fly it. the danger level decreases, but even if you use the best models out there, the likelihood of an accident happening is still very, very high.

Allow me to share an experience of just how dangerous it can be:

On a recent outdoor walk I took with my grandfather, I brought my Mavic Pro with me. I was looking to use the battery up and avoid having it discharge on it’s own (since actively using the battery helps maintain it’s longevity). But my plan fell apart quickly because I didn’t time my walk right. 

Basically I though I’d have more daylight remaining to fly the drone, and do the walk, but once we parked the car and I saw how quickly the sun was going down, I knew I had 10-15 minutes tops before night time hit. So I took the drone out and managed to get he first battery discharged pretty quickly while having some decent light.

Now my Mavic was telling me that there was not enough ambient light (natural light) and this wasn’t that big of a deal with the first battery, but once I put in the second, the sun had already set and night time was upon us. So to avoid the risks, while still trying to discharge the second battery, I had the Mavic take flight, but kept it very, very close to myself in case any issue came up, and believe me, there were MANY issues that did. That leads me to explain the following:

How night time flying can lead to disaster even with the best drones out there:

Now there’s quality levels to drones out there and obviously, the lesser quality models don’t have the same flight capabilities, stability, safety features and so on, so having those low tier models fly at night is just a foolish idea and one I would NEVER suggest anyone take. 

But the Mavic Pro is not your every day low tier model, it is a TOP tier one. Yet when using it during night time comes into the equation, here’s what it does to even the best of the best:

1) Sensors stop working. 

The Mavic has great safety sensors, yet if there’s no enough light, these things are rendered useless. Hence my idea to keep the drone close to me was indeed a good call, but as you’ll see, it was still very dangerous.

2) Drifting occurs, and a lot of it.

Despite flying my Mavic about 5-10 feet away from my and seeing it clearly, it still drifted in the air, up/down, left right and nearly hit me and trees several times. Though I was able to maintain “OK” control using the remote, drifting was still going on and it was actually confusing me at times. When I wanted it to move one way, but it drifted another, I used another joystick and it actually made it more likely to hit something else.

Basically, instead of having 100% control over the bird, I now had 60-70% and trust me, that itself is dangerous. Would you operate such a model when you didn’t have 100% control? In hindsight, I wouldn’t, these things are meant to be fun to use…

3) The GPS wasn’t working fine.

Usually it’s the GPS that allows the bird to remain in one area, but since it wasn’t working fine, this increased the drifting of the bird. And in my case, since I kept it close, there were many obstacles surrounding me that it could have crashed into (and it nearly did). 

So let me put it this way. Flying a drone at night, at close range is like driving a sedan in snow (not a good idea) and even if you fly it far and high, it’s like driving with a blindfold (a horrible idea) so basically, this is a very dangerous idea. And if you’re a chart kind of person, this may help explain what I mean:

But is there a way to make it work? Well, sort of…

While highly not recommended in general, there is a way to make drone flying “safe” at night and that is having a large area with AMBIENT light readily available for the model to use and have it’s safety features work well.

Let me give you an example of such a thing:

There is another park I sometimes go to where I use my Mavic. In that park, there is a large soccer field that is well lit at night. I have gone on several occasions when it was dark out to that soccer field and have flown my Mavic successfully. 

Because it is well lit there, the ambient light is plentiful and used by the Mavic to stabilize itself, have it’s sensors working fine and overall, the flight is as good as it would be during the day. 

However, as soon as the Mavic flew away from the field and basically too far from the ambient light to be in plentiful amounts, the red lights started popping up on my screen and the sensors started screwing up.

By keeping it in the field or close enough for the ambient light to be used, I could maintain a safe flight. 

Now in addition to that, not far from that field was a highway and not only did the flight remain safe, but I was also able to view the highway and all the lights and details of the cars, so if you’re into taking pictures then, under the type of circumstance I listed, it’s possible. 

Although my advice would be to avoid it, if you’re the type who likes to take these types of shots, make sure you have a good source of light available, otherwise, you’re flying blind, period and you’re going to quite possibly lose/break your drone. 

Sometimes the BEST shots are the ones you can take right during a sunset and at night, so if you’re going to risk this, make sure to do it early. During a sunset, arrive way before it even starts to happen so should the drone give you errors, you’ll have time to bring it back safely before it gets too dark.

And if you’re going to risk it fully and go when it’s dark, do so when there’s a good, large source of ambient light, but at the same time, do what you can to make sure there are no people around and it’s legal to fly there. 

If you decide to use a drone like mine (I typically fly DJI models), here is what you should look for on your screen for the conditions to be “right” to fly at night:

In the following image, I turned off the lights in my apartment to indicate the warning messages and lights to look out for:

So if this is same type of warnings you get, move to a different location, do NOT take off. Trust me, you’ll be happy you didn’t…

But as soon as I turned on some lights, the warnings changed:

If your area is lit enough and the red light turns white (as indicated on the top right hand corner), you are “good to go”, but still only take off if you’re a good pilot. 

Update: These 3 drone models may fly well at night.

Mavic 2 Pro and Zoom. Both are the exact same model, except with a different camera, but both have a special light on it’s belly that turns on whenever it tries to land at night. Also if you do plan to risk flying with either of these models, make sure there is ambient light somewhere to allow the camera to use it.

Mavic 2 Enterprise. This model is literally the same exact body as the Mavic 2 Pro and Zoom but the functions this drone has are entirely different. It is meant to help assist with search and rescue operations, especially at night. It actually has a thermal/night vision camera designed to help it fly at night, but this isn’t exactly a drone meant for filming, but rather, saving. Yet as far as I know, it is also a consumer model, meaning people can buy it.

Either way, if you choose to fly ANY drone model at night, I do believe as of 2019, the FAA (if you’re in the U.S) requires you attach a blinker/lume cube to it, which would allow people, planes and helicopters to see it from a distance, at night.

Flying Drones in Cold Weather. Is it Safe or Dangerous?

On the day this drone post was written, New York City, my area of residence has suffered from record cold temperatures. As I write this post, it is currently 18 degrees Fahrenheit.

Last night was 10! Being a drone pilot at the same time, I have to figure out how to take my “birds” out during this very cold season so the batteries don’t discharge faster.

What is one to do?  Well if you’re in a similar situation as me, there’s generally simple rules about flying drones in cold weather. The real question is:

  • How cold are we talking?
  • How windy is it?
  • Is there any snowfall, hail, rain? 

These are the 3 main questions you should ask before you take your bird out for a flight. With the exception of the Inspire series and a few other TOP tier models that actually have heated batteries, with others like the Phantom and below in level, you will need to adjust your drone flights accordingly and that’s what we’ll cover:

First: How cold is TOO cold? 

Generally as long as the drone flies within a temperature range of 0-40 degrees Celsius, it should be fine. But what about below freezing?

Well in that case, as long as the weather is clear, you should be fine to fly. However, there are some precautions that need to be taken:

1) Ensure that you “warm up” the bird and especially the battery before it takes flight. Start it up, let the motors run for a bit and basically “idle”. Anyone who owns a Spark, Mavic or Phantom knows that when they start up those models that they will make the type of noises airplanes do. That’s an indication that it’s running well and warming up, so let it, especially in that freezing weather. 

Depending on WHERE you start up the model, you should let it run idle for a little bit more time. For example:

If you’re outside and it’s below freezing, let the bird warm up for several minutes.

If you’re inside a house, a car or any area where the starting room temperature is fine, let it warm up for less than a minute. 

When actually flying, try not to take the drone too far or too fast, as the cold WILL impact the rotors, motors and basically the whole system. In short, you WILL get a shorter flight time when you attempt to take flight in cold and especially freezing temperatures, so do not freak out if you see the battery drain faster (here are tips for taking care of the battery), it’s normal and what CAN hurt it is if you don’t let the bird warm up enough before the flight, so definitely let it.

If you find yourself in a situation where the temperature is WAY below freezing, consider not even doing a flight that day, but if you absolutely must, use it for a shorter amount of time, take the necessary videos/photos you need to, then come home. 

Alright, onto the wind part. 

Normal models like the Mavic, Phantom, Typhoon H (what’s the difference?) and higher tend to have a higher threshold for combating wind conditions, up to 30 mph in some cases, but when you add a layer of cold and freezing weather to that, you really have a big risk on your hands using these things. 

I would recommend not taking the model out for a flight if it’s VERY windy and freezing. If nothing else, only do a few minutes because your battery will drain even faster, you will likely get a lot of beeping noises warning you about the conditions and recommend you bring it back. 

Also, keep it close to you. Should an emergency event happen and/or if the battery drains too fast, you will want the bird to be close enough to you. 

And finally, when it comes to snow, rain, hail…

My position is that if ANY of these conditions exist, you should absolutely NOT fly your drone. Most of the models out right now, at least the ones I own are not built to withstand this type of weather, so even a little bit of moisture will absolutely cause potential damage that is irreversible. 

Rain: Don’t. Any water that gets into the drone will potentially screw it up.

Snow: May as well call it rain too, because it will melt as it touches the model. 

Hail: Do we even have to ask? The answer is NO.

It only takes one little piece of ice to hit the propeller the wrong way to make the whole bird fall. I know this is probably common sense, but you’d be surprised at how foolish certain pilots are.

Mist/Fog: It’s just another form of rain and while a lot of people have used their models in this, I would not recommend it. If I see any moisture in the air, I have a strong rule of NO for taking out the model to fly. But I have seen people fly through it and make videos of it and frankly, I wouldn’t risk that…

Only take the risk if…

The above 2 conditions I listed on the temperature and wind conditions are basically conditions where you can fly IF and only if it’s not that windy and the overall area is clear.

We’re talking sunny, no sign of rain, snow or any other precipitation. If there is…don’t take the chance. I’ve had my moments where even a little bit of rain almost had me take out my model/s and use them, but rationale got the best of me and to this day, I am happy I didn’t do it. It’s not worth risking one beautiful shot for one expensive model.

Other cold conditions to consider:

Are you keeping your model in an area where it’s relatively warm? If you’re not, you should be. 

Never keep your drone outside in the freezing weather or overnight in a car. Basically any area where it’s super cold will impact the battery negatively and cause it to drain faster. Then, if you try to turn it not and warm up it up enough, it will cause potential damage.

Always try to keep your model in a safe, warm place if possible, any area with above freezing temperatures and preferably room temperature is fine. 

Update: Planning on flying in HOT weather?

There’s just as many dangers, which require similar and different safety tips. I’ve just written about here. Enjoy!

How to Safely do a Range Test With Your Drone.

Range tests have been a popular thing drone owners have been doing ever since the market started producing long range models. But often times, a lot of these end up going very wrong, because the people doing them simply aren’t using common sense safety tips. 

While it’s easy to do a range test on your drone (just fly it and see how far it goes), there are a lot of things that can go wrong. Things such as:

  • If you’re flying in open water and there’s nowhere to land should the battery run out.
  • If you’re flying in a heavily wooded area and the drone needs to land, it’s easy to lose it.
  • If you cancel the return to home option and keep going as far as you can and lose the model somewhere.
  • If the weather conditions aren’t good, thus you’re going to have issues having the model fly as far as possible given that most of it’s battery will be spent trying to fight the wind…
  • And so on.

People just don’t consider these things and that’s when trouble happens. Although it’s entertaining to watch on a YouTube video, as a drone owner, you probably know the horror of seeing your expensive toy potentially get lost, damaged or broken when there’s nothing you can do about it and I’ve seen even the most notable drone YouTubers make this mistake.

In fact, here’s one and sadly, he wasn’t able to recover his drone and was forced to get a new one (luckily because he had DJI Care, he was able to get another model without spending another $1,500 which was the cost of the model he lost):

So if you’re going to do a range test, do it right…

And that’s what this article will show you how to do.

Firstly, there are at least 9 models on the drone market as of 2019 with the longest distance (The Phantom 4 series which has 4 models in this category, the Inspire series which has 2 models in this category, and the Mavic Pro as well as the Mavic 2 Pro and Zoom).

These are the best for long range flights ever since the end of 2017 and all of their range potential is 7-8 KM and the Mavic 2 Pro series options are the best due to their advanced ocusync 2.0 connections.

Say you have one of these models and decide to see if they can fly that far. How would you do it? Would you just randomly come out one day and fly the drone/s?

No. There need to be some pre-flight quotas checked off. Here are 10 important ones:

1) Ensure you’re going out on a day when there’s minimal wind and there’s generally a sunny/cloudy day, with no chance of fog, precipitation, high wind, hot or cold temperatures.

All of these conditions affect the battery and safety of the model. Clear conditions with little to no wind are best to test this stuff out, thus allowing the battery to last as long as possible.

2) Ensure you’re doing your test in an open area, possibly over plains, water.

While flying over open water should be the last thing you test your drone’s distance potential on, sometimes the area you’re living in is such that you can only do it then. Flying it over a plain area is probably best and if you can, be in an open space where the signal from your remote is uninterrupted by any land/elevation changes (flat is good, but you being on a hill/mountain, while the area in front of your model is nothing but down is best).

Should water be the “only” option, fly near the shore at all times. If you’re on an island and in an area with other islands, always try to fly in a straight path such that there’s always going to be an island in your path and when you fly back, so that if the battery runs out and the model needs to land, that you’ll have a piece of land nearby to land it and then find it on your GPS.

4) Try to find any area where the connection between your remote and model is not interrupted.

Avoid areas with too many power lines, WiFi signals, cell towers, metropolitan areas (too many signal interruptions). Again, plain areas are best for this.

5) Set the signal to 2.4 GHz. 

2.4 GHz transmits further than 5.8 GHz (the only other option on these models) and that should only be used if you’re not doing a distance test but an area where there’s a lot of potential signal interference. Here’s more info on having a good connection.

6) Use range extenders (optional).

These are optional, but help when you can’t find an open area with the best connection. If you can, you’ll find that flying without these can lead your drone to fly the estimated distance as advertised. But flying with range extenders will definitely help.

7) Make sure you’re in an area with a good GPS signal and many satellites connected to your remote/drone.

The more you have, the longer/better the connection will be. Avoid range tests in areas where you have little to no connection with satellites. And again, the 9 models I pointed to above have great connections which will allow the GPS signal to be strong most of the time.

8) Consider beforehand the area you’re flying in.

Knowing the territory you’re flying in is huge. You never want the model to land on private property or get lost in an area where you won’t be able to find it. Knowing the area you’re flying in can help you pick a safe path for it to fly in.

9) Will you be flying one way for half the battery life then back? Or will you be flying the entirety of the battery just one way?

If it’s the first, then let the model tell you when it’s a good time to come back (and let it). If you’re not, cancel the return to home and warnings, keep flying, but make sure to land in an area where someone is waiting to pick up the drone (be in touch with them). I personally don’t like the idea of flying my model as far as possible, then having to find it before someone else does…

10) Do not use sport mode.

That absolutely drains the battery faster than anything else and you’ll likely not get as far as you could have without that. Though you fly a lot faster in sports mode, it should only be used IF you’re flying back with your model and wind conditions pick up, thus delaying it’s return.

In that case, you will have to consider using sport mode to get it back and/or possibly landing it somewhere in an area away from you to avoid the model losing it’s battery entirely. 

The Best Mavic Pro Accessories. 5 Must Haves!

There’s a lot of accessories for drones, especially the Mavic Pro and the 5 on today’s list are great for keeping it safe, which is why I say they are must haves! 

Owning a Mavic Pro (or Platinum) comes with huge responsibilities. While it’s an awesome drone, it’s also vulnerable to damage, and other outside vulnerabilities that can turn your happiness to sorrow very quickly.

My 5 must haves:

1) Dust proof plugs for the battery and actual Mavic Pro drone.

Your Mavic’s batteries and actual drone itself have an area where you charge them and put them into the drone. Those areas when exposed to outside surfaces may gather dust, sand and other types of micro particles (even water) that can cause damage. 

These plugs basically protect and prevent that type of scenario from happening, because when you’re not using the drone or batteries, you can simply put them on the battery/drone and rest assured none of these particles will get in.

Although cleaning kits are available, it’s best to avoid a scenario where you actually have something in the drone that requires it in the first place and you’re really preventing a lot of potential issues by getting this really cheap product. I use these.

2) Propeller guards. 

Alright so in all honesty, I have them, but I’ve hardly used them. Yet, keeping them around is necessary IF you’re a bad pilot and/or you are flying in a risky, tight space where the propellers themselves are likely to hit something.

I will say that if you are either one of these people (I fly in dangerous, increased likelihood of crash places), then you NEED to have these things handy in case a moment comes up where you decide to fly, but are sweating because you see all these potential areas for crashes all around you. While you won’t get FULL proof protection with these, it’ll be enough to cover the most sensitive areas (the propellers) and that may be enough in most scenarios. 

3) The Mavic Pro Platinum propellers. 

If you don’t own the platinum version of this drone, it’s OK, but a BIG perk that this model came with was that it’s propellers were/are compatible with the regular Mavic and I have them. They are a little bit fatter in size, but in my estimates provide an extra minute of flight time.

Furthermore, if you’re an incognito person and don’t want to disturb anyone when you’re flying around, you have a better chance of doing that with these propellers since they cut down on the noise made by the drone by over 50%. 

So with an extra minute of flight time and a quieter flight, why wouldn’t you want to get them? They are pretty cheap too.

4) This special wire to connect the phone and drone remote.

It’s called the Anker powerline cable and it’s a very sturdy, durable wire that connects your phone to the remote controller. Now the reason I recommend this is because it will provide a stronger reception signal between what the drone sees and your phone and you will have less chances of getting the dreaded “weak image transmission” signal.

With a stronger connection and image transmission, you really do get a lot out of this REALLY cheap wire. Just make sure to choose the one which connects to your particular phone outlet. I have a Samsung and accidentally ordered an iPhone extension, I had to reorder a Samsung one. Here it is.

Now this wire plugs into the bottom part of your remote (not the side) and is more than long enough to reach the phone. Get one that’s no more than 1 foot in length, you really don’t need anything longer.

5) A good waterproof case. 

I’ve been very happy with this one. Although the zipper broke, I still carry the case around using it’s handle at the top. With specific cut outs for the drone model and it’s batteries and remote, plus other miscellaneous stuff, you can feel safe knowing that your drone will not bounce around or in the event that you drop the case, it will not hurt the drone either. 

I’ve been very happy with it and highly recommend it. Although the only thing is, if you own the platinum propellers, you will have to remote the back wing ones since the cut out of the case doesn’t hold them. It’s a minor inconvenience, but with all the protection you get, it’s awesome.

The next 5, must haves:

I know I said 5, but after I wrote this article, I explored more accessories and found these extra ones are also highly recommended:

6) Protection caps for the motor (where you attach the propellers). 

Just like with the dust proof plugs above, your motor area is very susceptible to dust getting in there. Although I almost always keep my Mavic in it’s case which reduces that possibility, it doesn’t hurt to have them. I own 2 pairs for my Phantom 4 Pro and it’s a comforting accessory to have, so I would recommend you get these for a measly $5. 

7) A cleaning kit.

I would recommend them in the event that a cleaning scenario is necessary. I’ve had situations where bugs smashed into the drone while it was in the air and it required I clean the lens, and the body of the drone. 

Usually the most required areas to clean would be the motors, camera and exhaust areas, and a cleaning kit takes care of all 3 areas.

8) A landing pad.

I don’t really think of this as a necessity because if you become experienced enough, you can catch and fly the drone off your hand, but if not and you really want to play it safe, a landing pad will certainly come in handy.

The good news is that this one is not only big enough to fit the Mavic, but bigger models like the Phantom series as well. 

9) Lipo battery bag.

Traveling somewhere by plane? You NEED these. Lipo batteries which are found on the Mavic drone MUST be drained and brought on board with you when you fly (into the overhead bin). 

Having bags like these reduces the scenario in which IF something happens to the batteries that it will break out of the bag. In other words, it will keep it sealed and protected, and it will protect YOU and any passenger on board the plane.

Do not play around with this one, you can literally get fined, jailed or have your drone seized if you don’t follow the rules. Here they are.

10) A charger for the car.

If you travel a lot by car, you will note that there’s no a lot of time to charge the batteries themselves via an outlet so having a car charger for the Mavic like this will really help make sure your drone is ready to fly should you notice something on the road that you wish to film.

Although the charger I have does not support the controller, you can always charge it with a USB inside the car itself the same way you’d charge a phone. My experience has been that car chargers typically recharge the battery WAY faster than a normal, home outlet. 

Overall, I’d say these 10 are must haves because they take into consider the most likely possibilities of what may happen to the drone or if you take it somewhere. They are all quite inexpensive to get and really a great “insurance policy” to keep around.